2002 Malvasia Reserva

RS 129 g/l, TA 10.8 g/l, VA 1.15 g/l. 100% Malvasia. Canteiro ageing. Aged in French and American oak. Bottled 2021. Reddish turning to green-gold on the rim. Wow, this has a kick-ass nose. This smells like the smouldering stub of a very fine cigar. Pure tobacco leaf, soaked in prune and damson syrup, star-anise scented. I have never smelt a madeira like this. Caramelised sotolon, then baked apricots on rooibos tea. Marzipan. Chestnuts in dark honey, black tea, dried lavender, a touch of eucalyptus leaves at dawn and then this formidable balsamic tang that seems to go on and on and on and on and on. The flavours are so clear, so specific, so unusual. Peaty, smoky finish. (TC)