1987 Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Bual
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Tasting notes
Bottled in 2016, Cossart Gordon's 1987 Bual is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of orange rind, preserved lemon, figs and warm spices, as well as subtle hints of praline and mocha, a touch of volatility dissipating in the decanter. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's a fine-boned, elegant wine that is built around a spine of tangy acidity and concludes with a penetrating, nicely defined finish. This 1987 fleshes out considerably with 24 hours of aeration, so planning ahead when opening bottles is recommended.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 1987 Bual from Cossart Gordon (Bottled 2016) had a burnished amber color, perhaps a little deeper than I was expecting given its age. It has a reasonably complex bouquet with marmalade, molasses, toffee apple and a subtle seawater scent. The palate is clean and fresh, nimble for a Bual thanks to the fine line of acidity. I actually discerned more complexity in the mouth than on the nose as flavors of walnut, Chinese 5-spice, smoke and marmalade lead the way on the focused and sustained finish. Leaving the bottle aside for 24 hours, I did notice some improvement in the nose, which my score reflects.
Light sienna. Bitter caramel but strong toffeed sweetness on the nose. Deep bitter orange, so tangy. Dark Oxford marmalade. Intense and so fresh and pointed, driven. Clean lines and much tighter and less viscous than some. (JH)