2021 Puligny Montrachet Les Chalumaux

Jadot produced just a quarter of its normal crop of whites in 2021 – but what little remains is impressive. Chalumeaux is a windy site with poor soils just below Blagny and close to the border of Meursault. A real contrast to the Meursault Charmes tasted alongside, this fine Puligny Premier Cru is closed at first, with a flinty, struck-match, reductive character. With air, however, a vibrant nose of taut citrus fruit – lemons and limes – reveals itself, with a lactic creaminess adding depth. It’s tight and powerful now, with a line of firm acidity and raw core of power on the palate that builds to a long, chalky mineral finish. Flinty and fine, this is long and pure with Puligny’s characteristic minerality, needing time to unfurl fully.