2020 Chassagne Montrachet l'Abbaye Morgeot

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot unfurls in the glass with notes of pear, honeycomb, white flowers, freshly baked bread, ripe cantaloupe melon and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep core of fruit, racy acids and a long, chalky finish.

Cask sample. Mid lemon; concentrated and textured but quite austere. (MH)

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot unfurls in the glass with notes of pear, honeycomb, white flowers, freshly baked bread, ripe cantaloupe melon and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep core of fruit, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. The 2020 vintage is another very promising year for Pierre-Yves Colin, who finds the wines a bit more charming and demonstrative than the more serious, structured 2019s—the latter a vintage we revisited in bottle and which appears to possess considerable aging potential. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follows. (WK) 92-94