1995 Malmsey
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Tasting notes
The 1995 Malmsey, under the Cossart Gordon branding, was aged for 27 years in very old oak casks and contains 128g/L residual sugar. It has an elegant bouquet with cloves, ginger, mandarin and a very slight acetic touch that just gives it a bit of lift. The palate is viscous on the entry with tangy marmalade and quince, desiccated orange peel, allspice and stem ginger. With fine grip and depth on the finish, this should drink well for two or three decades at least. Excellent. 1,337 bottles produced.
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Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Tasted from a mini sample bottle. Malmsey grown on vineyards in São Jorge, on the north coast of the island. Aged 27 years in very old oak casks. TA 9.8 g/l, VA 1 g/l, RS 128 g/l, pH 3.32. 1,337 bottles, 204 half bottles, 81 magnums, 15 jeroboams and 3 melchiors released in 2023. A wine that simply beats with the heart of Christmas: spruce needles, Christmas cake, dried-fruit mince dark and deep and sonorous with spices and fiery with sweet-wood brandy and pinging with the brightness and bitterness of candied citrus peel. The texture has the rich curve of cream laced with sticky, dark plum-pudding syrup and the wine glows like ruby glass baubles in candlelight. It tastes like a carol sung at midnight. (TC)