2011 Porseleinberg

The 2011 Porseleinberg comes from a vintage that saw huge heat waves in January and early February, so just two tonnes were produced in total. Matured in concrete eggs only because of the depleted quantity, it was never released as they feared consumers would be displeased at not receiving their allocation. It has a taut nose, fresher than the 2010, black olive tincturing the blackberry and raspberry fruit. A subtle marine influence evolves with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a gorgeous opening, more red fruit than the black, a touch of white pepper and fine-boned tannins with a precise finish reminiscent of Jamet. This is evolving beautifully in bottle.

100% Syrah. Massive heatwaves in January and early February nullified the amazing growing conditions and the smallest harvest, a mere 2 tons of tiny grapes (the size of peppercorns), was the result. Grapes were hand-picked and transferred as whole bunches to concrete tanks. The bunches were then foot-stomped and left for natural fermentation to commence. During the ferment two pumpovers were done per day till the fermentation was complete. After the ferment there was enough wine to fill two concrete eggs (no wood), where the wine remained for 24 months. 1,400 bottles only! Sold only to private clients. Average harvest dates are in the first week in February but 2011 was January! TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.8, RS 1.7 g/l. The oddball in this array of beauties. They were still learning how to cope with drought. Very deep blackish garnet. Meaty, concentrated nose. Powerful liquorice essence. Still a bit of tannin on the end. I suspect the tannin will outlast the fruit. But there is admirable fruit here too so I could be proved wrong. (JR)

The 2011 Porseleinberg never received a commercial release. Louw told me that with a depleted 1,200 bottles they opted to keep the bottles, occasionally selling dribs and drabs to visitors and a few leaked into local auction. Based on this showing, I hope that this sophomore does see the light of day. It is more understated than the 2010 yet delivers the same unerring delineation and poise, a little more tertiary on the nose, hints of morels and girolles permeating the black fruit. The palate is harmonious and fresh as a daisy. The satin-like texture is so seductive, and it fans out beautifully towards the finish with a little more red fruit than the entry. When this is belatedly released, don’t hesitate in trying to obtain a bottle.