2022 Corton Vergennes Blanc HdB Paul Chanson

Paul Chanson bequeathed this 0.28-hectare parcel to the Hospices de Beaune in 1974. The vines are old, with some plantings dating back to the 1940s. Vergennes is on the eastern side of Corton, next to Bressandes, in an area more commonly planted to Pinot Noir. This 2022 bottled by Ramonet is a baby – full of Corton power and richness, but needing air and/or time to reveal its potential. After several hours in a decanter, the nose is irresistible – shifting between honey, grilled almonds, sweet nectarine, a stony purity, smoke and toasted brioche. Although you can feel the concentration and power, the palate is still closed – the oak dominating the wine’s natural muscle. The potential shines through, however, with bright acidity and weight to the wine. The finish is long and savoury with salty intensity that leaves your mouth watering. Tasting it the next day, the oak has receded, offering a glimpse of the immense yet refined, silken wine that lies in wait. This will be brilliant. Intellectually fascinating to watch it unfurl over several days now, but leave it until 2030 for a more hedonistic experience. 507 Bottles, 36 Magnums and 6 Jeroboams produced.