2021 Riesling vom Stein Smaragd

Mautern. Deep-soiled, stony section of the Silberbichl vineyard. Vines over 30 years old. Vinified in large old wood. Screwcap closure. RS 3.3 g/l, TA 6.5 g/l. Certified sustainable and biodynamic (Demeter). Deep yellow in hue. This feels mature, with earthy savour sweetened by notes of cognac and brown sugar. The old-school opulence is countered by a frisson of natty volatile acidity and acacia-flower fragrance, elements that bring freshness and liveliness to the wine. Good basic intro to Nikolaihof style. (TQT)