2023 Riesling Kabinett
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Scharzhofberger Kabinett is a fabulous expression of this coolish cru where Egon Müller holds more vineyards than anybody else and certainly in the very best spots. The regular Kabinett is dense, refined and elegant on the slate-driven and still aloof nose. Savory and fresh on the first palate, with racy acidity, this is a tight and still young Riesling with ripe and concentrated fruit. Due to the coolish August last year, the Kabinett has a pronounced acidity and comes like "a fist without the velvet glove," as Egon Müller describes it. The residual sugar is more palatable than in the Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett at this stage, but this Scharzhofberger is developing slowly and should be cellared fr another 6+ years at least. Tasted from AP 03 24 in April and August 2024.
Critic scores
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett comes from a completely south-facing gray slate site, always cooled by the west wind. Tender lemon spells tartness on the nose, opening into tart Reine Claude while remaining on that citrus track. The palate offers finesse and lemony brightness, a vivid spray of ripe Amalfi lemon with delicate sweetness reminiscent of lemon confit and sorbet. Beautifully taut and wonderfully light.
About the producer
Egon Müller is the most famous name in Riesling. The estate produces the world’s most expensive sweet white wines from the Grand Cru Scharzhofberg vineyard in Mosel, Germany.