2010 Cobos Volturno Marchiori Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2010 Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon Marchiori Vineyard comes from 15-year-old vines cropped at 3.1 tons per hectare and undergoes 18 months in French and American oak (70% new). It has an attractive floral nose with raspberry and macerated red cherries, hints of orange zest and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with dense, glycerine-rich, graphite-infused black fruit with layers of blackberry and licorice on the structured, candied finish. I find the power, but still seek the soul. Drink 2015-2025. Paul Hobbs has been an integral part of the Argentinean wine scene since the late 1980s when he worked with Nicolas Catena, as well as running his own respected namesake winery in California. It was a pleasure to taste with him in London earlier this year, but even then, I expressed some reservation about the alcohol levels on some his older wines from Vina Cobos. They are certainly fashioned in a style aimed directly towards those with a penchant for bold, full-bodied, rich expressions of Argentinean Malbec. Though I think they are well-crafted, tasting through the entire portfolio of recent releases, they do tend to blend into one, whereas I feel that other producers are moving towards translating the individuality of terroirs into individuality of their wines. Hobbs clearly knows what he is doing and having spoken at length, it is clear that he is aiming to dial everything down - just a little. The Felino range is fermented in stainless steel and sees 15% undergo maturation with oak staves. Importer: Paul Hobbs Imports, Sebastopol, CA; tel. (707) 824-9879.