2005 Beaune Vignes Franches

From just below the Clos des Mouches, the Chateau de Chorey’s 2005 Beaune Vignes Franches successfully combines sweetness of fruit and immediate charm with density, complexity and ageworthiness. Blackberry, cassis, game, violet, and gentian in the nose lead to a creamy palate marked by black fruits and striking florality. High-toned distilled and bright fresh fruit, smoky and floral elements persist in a long, refined finish. The tannins are really well hidden , and there will probably be no need to hurry in uncorking this beauty. But I would check its progress after 3-4 years to make sure that its lovely florality does not begin to lose out to gaminess. Also recommended: 2005 Chorey-les-Beaune ($25.00; 86). Benoit Germain has been at pains to retain the distinctive personalities and terroir transparency as well as ageability that wines of Chateau de Chorey routinely displayed under his father Francois’s regimen, while at the same time, through varied and sensitive fermentative techniques promoting more flattering primary fruit, refining tannic structure, and thus rendering wines more approachable in their youth. Germain is also beginning to incorporate elements of biodynamics. Malos took place promptly in Spring, but he seemed in no hurry when I visited to begin the bottling of his Beaune crus, which will take place without filtration. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70. Also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977 4476 and a Scott Levy Selection, Norcross, GA; tel. (770) 730 0361