1997 Fèlsina Fontalloro

The 1997 Fontalloro may be the finest made from this single vineyard (and I have tasted them back through the early eighties). Aged two years in French oak, there are 3,000 cases of this spectacular wine. Dense ruby/purple-colored, with a chocolate espresso-scented nose infused with cherry liqueur, it is a full-bodied, sweet wine with wonderful fatness, terrific ripeness, plenty of glycerin, and a chewy, long, spicy finish. There is some tannin in this youthful offering, but its appealing flamboyance is attention-getting. It should last for 12-15+ years. Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

Deep, solid ruby-garnet. Powerful in aroma, with notes of tobacco, tar, damp earth and vanilla. Full, intense flavors are nonetheless tightly wound and in need of bottle aging. Powerful tannins upholster the palate. Dense and concentrated on the finish.