2012 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny

Although I would not advise opening any of Mugnier's 2012s young, if there is an exception to be made it is for the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny. Delicate and lilting in the glass, the 2012 is a terrific introduction to the Mugnier house style. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, mint and a hint of spice waft from the glass in a beautifully perfumed, silky Chambolle. A second bottle tasted outside the domaine was much less expressive, which leads me to believe the 2012 is best left alone for a few years, despite its considerable appeal.

Saturated bright medium red. Captivating, slightly liqueur-like aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry, flowers and spices. Sweet, ripe and utterly seamless, offering excellent volume for village wine. Ripe acidity carries the sappy, mounting, classically dry finish. A totally satisfying village wine--and much richer than it appeared to be a year ago from the barrel.

Good medium red. Musky raspberry and flowers on the nose. Juicy, cool and dry, with a saline, iodiney quality on the palate. Rather austere today, and not yet showing the sweetness and flesh I would have expected in this vintage. Could use a bit more verve.