1999 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru

Very healthy dark color with just a hint of browning at the edge. Expressive aromas of black cherry, dark berries and chocolate. Seriously sweet and thick but in a distinctly powerful style, conveying a medicinal quality to its very ripe plum, dark cherry and mint flavors. The big tannins saturate the mouth and teeth. There's certainly no rush to drink this--and give it some time in a decanter if you decide to try it soon. "This was a time when we made very dense wines," said Dominique Lafon. "There wasn't an understanding of elegant wines in Burgundy then. And there was also more extraction." He went on: "This wine does not have the same tannins as the 2015 and 2016. In 1999 we punched down the cap every day, but in recent vintages we're only doing a total of three pigeages ."

Magnum. Extremely lively and youthful with bitter cherry fruit, grainy texture, admirable tension still, and amazing persistence. All still to play for in magnum format. Chapeau! (JR)