1996 Louis Jadot Domaine des Heritiers Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru

Warning! Lovely if you drink it straight away but it falls apart in the glass. Golden straw. Really interesting tertiary notes reminiscent of the ashes of a log fire. Some sulphides. Real quality! Tender and fragile and at its peak but very racy and transparent with power, lots of acidity and it couldn’t possibly be Montrachet or Batard. Liquorice. Very classic and lovely. Real undertow of Grand Cru weight but dominated by the raciness of Chevalier. Needs to be drunk immediately it’s poured – that old 1996 white burgundy problem. (JR)

adot's Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, one of Burgundy's perennial stars, is a stunner. Its aromatic purity and precision is something to behold, displaying extraordinary depth and ripeness as well as loads of liquid minerals. On the palate, it has unbridled power, a full body, an oily texture, and exquisite anise, spice, pear, and floral flavors. This highly-delineated and wonderfully structured wine will require patience. I suggest holding it until 2005 and consuming it before 2015. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; (212) 490-9300.