2006 Blackbird Contrarian

The brilliant 2006 Contrarian (38% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals plum, licorice, and black currant fruit intertwined with a mocha, coffee, berry character that recalls a fine Right Bank wine from Bordeaux. Medium to full-bodied, sexy, and heady with succulent fruit, but none of the astringent tannins sometimes evident in 2006s, this beauty should drink well for 15 years. This impressive portfolio was assembled by winemaker Aaron Pott and consulting winemaker Sarah Gott (her husband owns the incredibly successful fast-food chain of Taylor’s Refresher in San Francisco, Napa, and St. Helena – which makes the best cheeseburger and Ahi burger in the land). All of these offerings reveal beautiful balance, suppleness, and intensity. Production runs between 200-300 cases for most of the cuvees, with the Illustration maxing out at 1,200 cases. Blackbird’s mission statement is to make artisanal, Pomerol-inspired wines from Napa Valley, and they appear to be succeeding. The estate vineyard is in the Oak Knoll district, which is well-known for deep, loamy, gravelly soils. Tel. (707) 252-4444; Fax (707) 252-9999