2000 Paul Déthune Vintage Brut Grand Cru

(60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir; disgorged November, 2007) Bright yellow with a steady bead. Lemon rind, redcurrant, jasmine and green tea on the nose. Juicy, mineral-driven citrus and orchard fruit flavors are deepened by notes of fruit pit and candied rose, with a hint of tarragon adding complexity. Leaves smoky mineral notes behind on the long, sappy, very persistent finish. This is impressively complex now but is balanced to age.