2004 Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese

Beginning last year, there was a change of strategy at Dr. Loosen when it comes to harvesting their most celebrated vineyard. That conscious attempt to enhance fresh fruitedness, brightness, and clarity is impressively reflected in their 2004 Erdener Pralat Rieslng Auslese. Chartreuse-like herb and flower distillates, tangerine, lemon, and honey arise from the glass. In the mouth, it exhibits a long, elegant line and a bright, sorbet-like expression of tangerine, along with salty mineral and nut oil depth. The finish is terrifically long, involved, and refined, with floral and herbal top notes and clarity of citrus that I don’t recall from Loosen Pralats of past years. Any of this year’s crop of Loosen Auslesen should easily be worth watching for at least a quarter century, and this Pralat in particular. Its astonishing purity and poise arise from fruit that had only a subtle but noble blush of botrytis, the fruit having been for the most part, Schug reports, tiny, healthy and golden. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255