1993 Domaine Lecheneaut Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes

This wine is a densely colored, medium-bodied, concentrated Pinot Noir, but as impressive as its color and extraction are, the hard, tough tannins give it a firm, angular, impenetrable style. I am not suggesting that it will not come around, but I would be negligent if I did not caution readers to recognize that the tannin level is extremely high and patience is definitely required. The wine will stand the test of time, but will it ever be a sweet, expansive, rich, complex red Burgundy? Time will tell. I will give it the benefit of the doubt for now, but readers are forewarned. Lecheneaut's 1993s are well-endowed, deeply-colored wines with surprisingly tart acidity for their ripeness (the tell-tale low PHs of the vintage are clearly present), and in some cases, severe tannin levels. All of these wines were bottled unfined and unfiltered after spending 18 months in a high percentage of new oak barrels. The question marks accompanying the numerical ratings reflect my reservations due to the tart acidity and high tannin these wines possess. Many 1993s are too tannic and acidic without balancing fruit extraction or depth. There is no doubting that Lecheneaut's wines have plenty of intensity. Nevertheless, the hard tannin should make anyone approach these wines with the idea that they will need to be cellared for a minimum of 6-10 years prior to consumption. Burgundy's track record for dropping its fruit long before its tannin is enough of a reason for the question marks. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083