2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling BA
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Tasting notes
There is a slightly acrid and outright fungal expression of botrytis on the nose, though candied lemon, honey, glazed pineapple and musky iris perfume are also present. Tang of pineapple and zest of lemon combine for prickle and pungency, which, when taken together with the wine’s high residual sugar, honeyed cast and emerging peach preserves, make for a slightly sweet-sour restlessness, even given a viscous and glycerol-rich palate. Both lightly singed and caramelized notes accent the peach preserves and pineapple on a buoyant, vibrant finish of prodigious length that also perpetuates an impression of unresolved tension. This definitely needs time. There were around 200 liters – an impressive haul for something this ennobled and from a vintage notorious for its low yields.
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese is deep, clear, fresh and perfectly ripe on the concentrated, crunchy-flinty nose with its concentrated aromas of stewed peaches, pineapples and tropical fruit intertwined with very fine notes of crushed slate and fermented pepper. Dense, lush and highly finessed on the rich, concentrated yet still pure, mineral, vital and salty-piquant palate, this is one of the most light-footed, stimulating and mouthwatering BAs you can imagine. The sweetness comes on wings here, and the wings are made of slate—slate from the Juffer Sonnenuhr, one of the greatest terroirs along Mosel, Saar and Ruwer. This is an eternal BA from a great vintage, and I can hardly imagine a finer one from here. Drinking the 2017 Juffer Sonnenuhr BA should be a moment of glory. I had it in March and April 2019.
There wasn't a lot of botrytis, but what they had was 'healthy, fine and pure'. Not much nose, smells like gripe water. Just way way way too young. Almost unformed. Apples, slow baked, and syrup and ginger and spice. Incredible length. Droplets of heaven. The acidity seems to come from above and scoop the wine up in a cupped hand. Impossible to describe. Iridescent. Stunning. (TC)