2004 Montrachet Grand Cru

Unlike the majority of the Ramonet '04s, this is as one would expect, which is to say reserved and primary yet classy, pure and ultra refined with a wonderfully complex if presently subdued nose of spicy white flower fruit nuanced by hints of citrus, liquid minerals and acacia blossom that continue onto the rich, intense and beautifully delineated flavors that possess exceptionally subtle wood notes on the hugely long finish. As good as the other grands crus are, there is simply another dimension here and while I don't think this will be one of the longest-lived vintages of this much storied wine, it should provide much pleasure in its inimitable way. In a word, striking.