2004 Château Cheval Blanc

The 2004 Cheval Blanc has always been a wine that I felt needed patience on behalf of the wine lover, and so it is proving to be the case. Served blind I remarked upon a surprisingly Burgundy-like bouquet with ample red cherries, candied strawberry and redcurrant scents, the Merlot clearly more conspicuous than the Cabernet Franc, at least for now. The palate is medium-bodied with just a touch of coarseness on the entry. I appreciate the weight and balance here and belatedly the Cabernet Franc begins to express itself on the latter half, lending structure and grip, a dash of spice and a bit of sinew. Whilst it will never have the persistence of other vintages and regrettably continue to be dwarfed by the 2005, it remains a very fine Cheval Blanc from Pierre Lurton and his team. (NM)

Deep, soft-edged garnet. Gorgeously complex and seductive aroma – perfumed, multilayered and even a little exotic in its spice, a touch of orange. Even with all that seduction, there's a breath of fresh air and energy. Soft, fresh and elegant. Fabulous harmony and delicacy on the palate – less intense than I expected from the nose but there is great persistence. Super smooth, gently fresh and finely aromatic. (JH)