2009 Domaine des Terres Dorees Moulin-à-Vent

Elderberry, blueberry, and marrow rich beef stock dominate Brun's 2009 Moulin-a-Vent (from two parcels, one toward Chenas, and one toward Fleurie), which I caught up with in June soon after its bottling. Brown spice, fruit seeds, rose hip, and chalky, somehow ore-like, stony impingements make for a vivid sort of complexity, informing a finish of vibrant, interactive intensity. Noticeable dissolved CO2 - while it needs to (and almost certainly will) settle down a bit - also adds to the tactile intensity and sense of vivacity exhibited here, a legacy Brun considers conducive to longevity and important due to his low dosage of sulfur. This dynamic, palate staining cru offers exceptional value and the promise of at least 6-8 years of fascinating evolution. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Mid crimson. Very fragrant. Then substantial. Much chewier than the Morgon. Tastes much stronger than 12%, and set for the very long term. Ambitious wine that is light years from conventional mass-market Beaujolais. NB suggested drink dates. (JR)