1990 Domaine Georges Mugneret Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
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The 1990 Clos de Vougeot was the third in a series of vintages opened at a private dinner in Burgundy. I have encountered this once before in a large format at the La Paulée and it has never really captured my imagination: pretty and floral on the nose with grass clipping aromas. The palate is powerful but just a little brutish, a Clos de Vougeot with swagger although lacking the finesse of other vintages tasted. Tasted at a private dinner in Burgundy.
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This bottle of 1990 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru was actually labelled "Georges Mugneret" although it was made by sisters, Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée (and it was the latter who was pouring the wine). It offered a mature, quite floral bouquet with plenty of red berry fruit and touches of chlorophyll, nicely defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a chunky and dense opening, what you might call a burly in style but with good acidity. Foursquare and muscular, it is a commendable Clos Vougeot albeit one that lacks the finesse that the Mugneret-Gibourg domaine produces today. Tasted November 2016.
The Clos de Vougeot from this domaine can be otherworldly, but the 1990, while potentially outstanding, is tough-textured, austere, and lean. There is excellent ripeness, as well as plenty of weight and depth on the palate, but the wine is closed, backward, and unevolved. I would not touch a bottle before the late nineties and hope that the fruit proves concentrated enough to out live the hard tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2010.||I tasted through the Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg's wines twice in cask and once following bottling. They are firm wines, without the sweetness and opulence I have noted in vintages such as 1985. They will undoubtedly be long-lived. ||Peter Vezan Selections, various importers. Wine Advocate.October, 1992