1988 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

Deep medium red. Very sexy, complex aromas of raspberry, tobacco and musky caraway seed; there's something frozen in time about the nose of this wine. Very fresh if slightly tart-edged red berry, cherry compote, herb and pine needle flavors display moderate texture and sweetness, as well as a slightly disjointed quality. In a linear, slightly green style but still with a subtle sweetness to the middle palate. The mouthcoating tannins are firm and a bit dry-edged, arriving earlier than those of the '87 and a bit less supported by fruit. I doubt this wine will expand further in bottle but what it lacks in velour it makes up with energy. An excellent showing for this challenging vintage. Incidentally, a second bottle of this wine, tasting chez moi, was a bit sweeter and silkier (but less sweet than the '87), and showed a chewier, thicker middle palate and less obvious dryness and greenness. While its acidity seemed more harmonious, it still conveyed the coolness of 1988.