2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes

The 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Vieilles Vignes had just been assembled, but not yet sulfured or filtered. It boasts a bright, sorbet-like expression of red raspberry and cherry fruit, with high-toned notes of marzipan, subtle suggestions of beef marrow, a silken feel in the mouth, and refined tannins. Unusually red-fruited and extroverted for a 2005, this sleek Pinot promises to be an exception also in drinking well young, although up to 5-7 years bottle age will probably do it no harm. If further proof were needed that the Chevillons are in a class by themselves among the major Nuits-St.-Georges landholders, they certainly delivered it this year. Like so many other vintners, they reported backing off on pigeage this year – and heaven knows, the resultant wines don’t lack for concentration. Their Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Bourgogne, and Nuits-St.-Georges Les Perrieres had all just been sulfured and filtered, so Bertrand Chevillon declined to show them. He was as yet noncommittal, however, about when the other wines would be bottled, although this would probably continue through Spring, and be accompanied by the estate’s usual light filtration. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.