2005 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru

Full red-ruby. Knockout nose melds raspberry, flint, mocha and coffee; distinctly rocky. Big, rich and sweet, with very ripe red berry liqueur flavors framed by an edge of tannins and acids. Like the Echezeaux, this also shows some lower-toned earth and underbrush elements, but this one also has the ineffable mineral lift I crave. Almost too seductive now: will it shut down in the bottle?

Rouget’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux displays much brighter, diverse red and black fruit aromas than does his Echezeaux, along with high-toned fruit distillate and citrus rind suggestions and scintillating spiciness (although a certain caramel, vanilla and resin overlay of oak is present as well). This delivers bright, energetic, sappy fruit intensity and generous spiciness on the palate, leading to an ejaculatory finish, at once pointed and clinging in its concentration. Plan on saving this (and yourself) for another 8-10 years. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400