2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate/Le Coste

The 2000 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste, tasted from magnum, is one of the wines of the vintage. Still imposing and massively structured, it is also one of the most imposing 2000s. It possesses marvelous richness and depth, with just enough radiance to make it approachable today. Almost. Readers who can still find magnums of the 2000 should not hesitate. This is a magnificent wine.

Good full medium red. Aromas of plum, raspberry, tobacco, smoke and earth; suggestions of both liqueur-like warmth and herbal coolness. Sweet, fat and strong, but without quite the inner-mouth perfume of the 2001. In fact, this comes across as a bit burly today. Finishes with broad, faintly dry-edged tannins and less sweetness than the 2001.

(Rinaldi's most important Barolo, made from about 70% Brunate, the rest from vines on the La Coste hillside near Rinaldi's house just outside the town of Barolo) Medium-deep red. Slightly rustic but sappy aroma of berry confiture. Sweet and sappy in the mouth, with solid acidity but also a distinctly warm aspect. Definitely a hot-year wine. Does it have the depth for outstanding?