2005 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru

Much deeper crimson than any wine younger than this in the J&B retrospective. Rich and meaty. Solid rather than flyaway but there is masses of interesting fruit here. Still lots of tannin in evidence. (JR)

Deep crimson. Sweet and heady in the rose petal and perfume register. More developed than many. Pretty stolid – just slightly dusty and slightly lacking freshness on the finish. I’d drink fairly soon. Just a touch of sourness on the end. (JR)

Having tasted this three or four times in the past, I probably have under-rated this wine because it is such a long-term proposition. The 2005 Volnay Santenot has a dense, almost impenetrable bouquet that demands considerable aeration to unveil its multi-layered aromatic profile of creme de cassis, raspberry, blackberry and a veneer of new oak that needs several more years to be fully absorbed (indeed, it feels like more than the one-third new oak that Dominique uses). The palate is full-bodied with a sweet, succulent entry. It is beautifully balanced, vivacious and sensual with a dab of alcohol on the finish. It is far too young to broach at the moment, but it will develop with style over the next three decades. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted September 2013.