2001 Armando Parusso Barolo Mariondino

The 2001 Barolo Mariondino has aged beautifully. Freshly cut flowers, mint and spices lead to expressive dark red berries as the wine puts on considerable weight in the glass. The aromas are classic Mariondino, but there is a level of textural richness and sheer depth to the fruit that elevates the Mariondino. I have never considered Mariondino to be one of the top sites in Monforte, but Parusso’s 2001 is making me reconsider that view. Flowers, tar, earthiness and tobacco add an element of delicacy to the big, intense finish. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Deeper, darker in color and more masculine than the normale, the 2001 Barolo Mariondino opens with notes of underbrush and leather on the balsamic nose. On the palate it reveals plenty of dark ripe fruit and tar flavors with good length, although it lacks the balance and elegance of the very best wines here. “It's the terroir that gives this impression,” says Parusso. “To me Bussia is a grand cru, while Mariondino is a premier cru.” The deeply colored, seriously long and intense Barolo Bussia displays a complex nose of roses, minerals, spices, underbrush, macerated cherries and chocolate. It shows tremendous thrust on the palate along with massive amounts of dense ripe dark fruit, huge tannins and a beautiful note of menthol on the finish that makes this a very complete and satisfying wine.

Dark red. Roasted red cherry, milk chocolate and smoky oak on the musky nose. Fat, broad and rich, but less fruit-driven, sweet and open than the normale Hints of truffle and mint. A firmly structured wine that finishes with serious, slightly drying tannins.