2005 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

Toasted nuts, over-ripe peach, broiled grapefruit, quince paste and briny sea breezes all rise from a pale, green-gold glass of 2005 Savennieres Coulee de Serrant. As with the “Clos de la Bergerie,” the ester-filled pungency of the aromatics alone should put one on guard, and unfortunately, the level of alcohol (15% per the label) is deleterious, manifesting itself in heat and roughness that surely prohibit finer flavor elements from emerging. As is, the finish is certainly massive and intense, with peach kernel, grapefruit rind, toasted almond, salt and chalk inflecting a persistently juicy, peachy matrix. Those not faint of heart who persist will still find fascination, but cannot fail to be disappointed given the potential of this site and notoriety of this producer. As for aging potential, I have seldom known a wine to redress in bottle the sort of alcoholic imbalance I perceive in these Joly 2005s, but I have witnessed a few dramatic instances of long term alcoholic integration (one or two youthfully top-heavy Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer; a youthfully spiritous 1988 Muller-Catoir Pinot Gris) so I shall not say “never”. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000