2007 Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Bargeton

Bright ruby. A complex, floral-dominated bouquet shows raspberry, incense, smoky minerals, and strong rose and lavender qualities. Darker fruits dominate the palate, with anise and bitter chocolate notes complementing deep, ripe cherry and black raspberry flavors. The finish repeats the cherry and floral notes and lingers with excellent persistence. For a ripe wine this is impressively lively. (Chemin des Vins, Sherborn MA

The super-star of the Chateauneuf du Papes is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Bargeton. Made from 80% tank-aged Grenache (nearly 100-year-old vines) and the rest barrel-aged Syrah and Mourvedre, this cuvee comes from the famed Galets Roules of the renowned sector of Chateauneuf du Pape called La Crau. A dense plum/purple color precedes notes of roasted herbs, licorice, smoked duck, soy, blackberries, cassis, and plums. Fabulously pure fruit, a full, layered texture, and a finish displaying exceptional intensity, purity, and length (50 seconds) suggests this superb Chateauneuf du Pape may be the finest effort Patrick Lesec has yet fashioned. It should drink well for 12-14 years. The stars in Patrick Lesec’s porfolio are the superb Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees he fashions, but there are also some stunning bargains for shrewd consumers. By the way, Lesec chose not to produce any Chateauneuf du Papes or Gigondas in 2008. Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.