2009 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Three Blocks

The 2009 Pinot Noir Three Blocks is a magnificent wine that brings together the very best qualities of the three Neely Pinots, although it is sold under the Varner label, just to make things confusing. The exuberant fruit from Upper Picnic seems to dominate a touch, but the Three Blocks is simply gorgeous. Aromatic nuances come to life with time in glass, as hints of tar, ash and new leather emerge on the finish. The Three Blocks captures the very best qualities of Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir. For more on the components in this blend, readers may want to look at my reviews of the Neely wines, also in this issue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Brothers Jim and Bob Varner describe 2010 as a cold year with two heat spikes that were shorter and less dramatic than in other parts of California. It was a long growing season, and the fruit came in 2-3 weeks later than normal. As always, the Varner and Neely wines were fermented in barrel, with native yeasts, natural fermentation and minimal handling. These broad-shouldered Chardonnays and deep, resonant Pinots remain some of the most compelling wines being made in California. Tel. (650) 321-4894; www.varnerwine.com