2009 Château Haut-Brisson La Reserve

The limited production 2009 Haut-Brisson Reserve ratchets up everything, from the color (inky purple) to the aromatics, flavor profile, and long, full-bodied finish. This is a brilliant St.-Emilion that tastes like it came from one of the great terroirs on the St. Emilion plateau. It is also structured and unevolved, and will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030. This Chinese-owned estate (Elaine Kwok) has made their two best wines to date. I have liked these wines in the past, and these 2009s are quite an accomplishment, coming from a terroir that is not considered one of the better ones in St.-Emilion, sitting just adjacent to that of Jonathan Maltus’ Chateau Teyssier.