2022 Millemann Wines Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
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Charles Curtis MW, Decanter
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
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The Millemann family has taken every step to retain maximum freshness even in the torrid 2022 vintage, and has already racked wine into stainless steel to help preserve its vigour. Superb concentration of tropical and orchard fruit aromas are gently trimmed with hints of spice, fresh acacia flowers and beeswax. A marvellous tension and intensity draw the wine to a neverending finish. After pressing and settling, the must is run into a new puncheon for fermentation and ageing without sulphur (until bottling). A reference for the appellation.
Just finishing its sugars, not sulphured. So quite a full amber colour which will be cleaned up later. A little butterscotch but not the dull bruised apple style of oxidation. Much fresher on the palate, with greengages, a little citrus and a weighty mouthful. Power at the back, heady even, but full of stony character as well. 13.75% alcohol. I can only put the score in a broad bracket at this early stage.
About the producer
Since 2017, Pierre Millemann – a leading wine consultant – along with his wife, and now daughter Charlotte, has been working as a micro-négoce, producing tiny volumes of Premier and Grand Cru Burgundy, both white and red. The wines have rapidly become some of the region’s most sought-after.