2009 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er Cru

Good deep red. Wild berries, black cherry, menthol and stone on the expressive nose. Juicy, spicy and aromatic on the palate, but also with the creaminess of the vintage. Very ripe but nicely structured wine with lovely lingering sweetness. Cathiard notes that this cuvee has shown more volume in the last three or four vintages and that he's now working these 56-year-old vines with a horse (along with Reignots and Romanee-Saint-Vivant), as it's difficult to get a tractor in.

Vines are 56 years old and ‘starting to be interesting’, according to Sylvain. Bright cherry red with much aromatic expression. Quite firm but not at all heavy. Rather set in aspic (cherry jelly?) at the moment. Not really savoury and appetising enough at the moment and rather lighter than one would expect for the age of the vines. Perhaps it just needs time? (JR)