1981 Château Cheval Blanc***

The 1981 Cheval Blanc has long been one of the over-achieving wines of a patchy vintage, though I had not seen a bottle for some time. This has a refined bouquet with black fruit, briary and light forest floor scents. The Merlot is more expressive than the Cabernets. The palate has a sweet entry, gentle at first so that you almost fail to notice the grip and structure behind this Cheval Blanc. This suggests that perhaps it has faded a little in recent years, forgivable given its age. Still, it remains a delicious, lighter-styled Saint-Émilion undeservedly overshadowed by the following vintage. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall at Chelsea Vintners' The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide dinner.

Magnum. Dense crimson with some evolution at the rim. Dry finish with definite spice to the fruit. Very satisfying drink though bluer and drier than the Beaucastel 1981 magnum served alongside. (JR)

Served blind next to La Mission of the same vintage. Very dark ruby still and obviously very sweet and ripe. It was served blind and I thought it could be a Pomerol. Round and sweet with great density. Very clean. Clearly one of the finest 1981s (though I have very fond memories of Certan de May 1981).