2007 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 6 l

The colour remains young, a medium intensity plum red with vivid reflections. Tannins are a touch austere on the opening beats, but the payoff of higher acidity levels is a satisfyingly savoury character to the cool blue fruits, with grilled blueberry and redcurrant alongside richer seams of wild strawberries. A slight dip through the mid palate reflects the challenges of the vintage, but pulses of sage and black pepper spice keep you smiling, and underline the juicy signoff. 70% new oak for ageing. Harvest September 13 to October 5.

The 2007 La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the great successes of a vintage given the cold shoulder by consumers on initial release. It has an ebullient bouquet of vivid dark berry, warm gravel and undergrowth scents that are complex and beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, crisp acidity, a precise structure and superb tension on the finish.

The 2007 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion has slightly more Cabernet Sauvignon than its Haut-Brion counterpart and is 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc. More rounded, sexy notes of plums, licorice, spice-box and truffle emerge from this totally irresistible, charming, medium-bodied Pessac that has sweet tannin and a great finish. It too is going to continue drinking nicely for 15-20 years.