1968 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio

A vintage classified as three stars by the Consorzio and with a little botrytis. Pale brickstone. Tasted next to the 1982 it seems almost more vibrant and less impacted by oxidation. Lovely complex mulch and herb liqueur and very slow to open up. Less body, less weight on the palate, waxy fruit with a lovely balance and fine acidity and tannins. A little fragile but still very much alive. Just mid length but beautifully velvety tannins. (WS)

A three-star vintage according to the consortium of Chianti Classico, and a very heterogenous year with great differences between the individual Chianti Classico communes. Gaiole and Radda did well, while Greve and Panzano are considered less great. Spring was wet, but weather improved in June and July. The grapes arrived with good ripeness levels in the cellar, but some of the bunches were affected by noble, as opposed to, grey rot. 1968 was the first year in which white grapes were eliminated from the blend and also the first in which the grapes were destemmed before fermentation. The governo Toscano method was abandoned from this year on. 12,550 bottles of 720 ml produced. Just mid ruby with brickstone rim. Darker and headier than the 1962, almost sweet even. Dark earth and kitchen spice, hint of oatmeal and a touch of cough syrup. A little bit dusty and with notes of bacon. This certainly is a complex whole! Much more full bodied than the 1962, and with more extract and structure but its concentration is more like an aged burgundy. Very elegant, lively and vibrant and still going strong. Impressive tannin on a fine fragrant finish. (WS)