2007 Faugeres

One of the stars of the vintage, the opaque ruby/purple-colored 2007 Faugeres shows lots of graphite, vanillin, blueberry, black currant, licorice, and crushed rock characteristics. Surprisingly dense and full-bodied for a 2007, with sweet tannin and low acidity, it should drink nicely for 10-12 years. This has always been a good estate, but the new proprietor, Silvio Denz, has pushed things to a higher standard by lowering yields and doing an even stricter selection.

Medium ruby. Black cherry, licorice and a hint of game on the nose. Supple, broad and perfumed, with a restrained sweetness and an impression of rather extractive vinification. Finishes with dusty tannins and a flavor of dark chocolate. (A second sample was a bit cooler and more minty.)

Very deep blackish crimson. Rich and meaty nose – classic St-Émilion. Sweet and rich and opulent and really quite heady. To produce this sort of sensation surely takes and asks for a lot of money…? Certainly stands out from the crowd! Not classical but well done. For modernists. Just a little green on the finish. (JR)