2005 Corton Le Rognet

The Meo 2005 Corton Rognets delivers yet more fresh black fruits and minerals in the nose. Tart berry skin and chalky undertones compliment a generous fresh fruit juiciness on the palate. Refined tannins and admirable length of fruit and stone complete the picture of an unusually bright and lithe Corton that still, I suspect, needs 8-10 years in the cellar. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.

Good bright ruby-red. Aristocratic nose hints at black raspberry, violet and minerals. A large-scaled, dense, sweet fruit bomb in the mouth, with splendid clarity to its outsized fruit. Finishes with noble tannins, juicy acids and terrific persistence. At 13.5% alcohol, this is by no means a massive style of Corton.