2003 Chevalier Montrachet

The aromatically demure 2003 Chevalier-Montrachet (white) is a tightly wound wine with herbal, apple, and steely mineral flavors. Light-bodied and unwilling to blossom on the palate, it is restrained and crystalline. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(this was the last 2003 to be racked, just two weeks before my visit) Pale yellow color. Expressive aromas of smoke and nuts; suggests a fat rather than a minerally wine to come. Then thick in the mouth, with a pineapple flavor and an almost syrupy texture. Not overly sweet but lacks this vineyard's characteristic detail and lightness of touch.