1986 Meursault Rougeots

The 1986 Meursault Les Rougeots is one of the best wines from that decade I have ever tasted. Its village cru status is a moot point – this is a sensational wine when Jean-François Choche seemed to do no wrong. Lucid and silvery in hue with subtle green hints, it still looks far more youthful than its 32-years of age. The aromatics seem to...sparkle. There is something almost crystalline with brioche and freshly baked popcorn, acacia honey and hints of wet wool perhaps giving away its age. The palate offers exquisite balance, effervescent and tensile with orange pith and citrus peel. This is such a vivid Les Rougeots that is surely equal to the Premier Crus that year. Immense. Tasted at Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris.