1999 Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche
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Pierre Rovani
Jancis Robinson MW
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The 1999 Montrachet Grand Cru is poured from magnum, the first in a flurry of wines commencing a La Paulée in Beaune. I find this a little spirituous on the nose, powerful, almost "burly" in style. I would have liked more mineralité to show through. The palate is actually better with impressive weight. This is a broad-shouldered Montrachet with a slightly oily texture and a dash of white pepper mixed with green olives on the finish. Fine, but just missing the pedigree of the best vintages.
Probably slightly on the other side of maturity. Deep gold in color, with a beautiful butterscotch, green apple and citrus nose, the wine is soft, elegant and fleshy, but not exciting. 93 Points
About the producer
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.