1998 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts
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We opened a mouthwatering selection of red Burgundies, including two from one of my favorite producers in Vosne-Romanée. This would have been overseen by Sylvain Cathiard himself, predating the arrival of his son and current winemaker, Sébastien. The 1998 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a perfumed, heady bouquet of dark cherries, cassis and incense. The palate shows lovely balance and tastes sweet and candied, quite plush for a 1998 and not as elegant as the 2000. Though I admire the pastille-like finish, I feel there are some unresolved tannins, rendering it a bit stocky and unwieldly.
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Average Score
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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I must confess that I was expecting to enjoy the 1998 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts more than I did. It has a fungal, potent undergrowth-scented bouquet with darker fruit than the 1996. It is medium-bodied and quite glossy with noticeable creamy new oak that is not quite as resolved with the fruit as I would have liked at this stage, with plenty of bottle age. It is also a little animally on the finish. Tasted June 2014.