1995 Pingus

The maiden Pingus is still going strong as it approaches adulthood. It has a complex bouquet, the glycerine content having ebbed over the years, revealing lush scents of creme de cassis, blackberry, black olive and a slight earthy, almost Graves-like tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with surprising succulent on the entry underpinned by crisp acidity. There is almost a sense of conservatism to this Pingus, but it is undeniably well balanced. If I were to criticize, compared to subsequent vintages it lacks the some fineness of tannins towards the finish. Still, it is one delicious drop of Ribera del Duero and could easily last another decade, possibly more. Drink now-2030.

Debut vintage, very experimental but hugely successful. Deep crimson with slightly faded rim but no sign of orange. Intensely gamey, meaty nose with whiffs of blackberry. Full, very thick entry on the palate, significant acidity and tannins quite amazingly recessed. Not to say almost undiscernible. Lovely mellow mouthful. With game please. Very, very slightly short? This was the vintage of which quite a quantity was lost mid-Atlantic when the boat carrying it went down. More's the pity. (JR)

Deep ruby-red. Mellow, deep aromas of dark berries and exotic wood tones, with a suggestion of Provençal herbs; not quite as lively or perfumed as the brighter '96. Shows the roasted, gamey ripeness that characterizes so many '95s from the region. Great sweetness and complexity in the mouth. Doesn't possess quite the sappy lift of the '96, but perhaps even more concentrated. Powerful underlying structure and palate-staining persistence. Has the thick, 3-D texture to buffer its huge, ripe tannins. I ultimately give the '96 a slight edge on sheer brightness, but this is compelling wine.