2010 Ornellaia

Poured from the special anniversary bottle, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a truly outstanding wine that leaves a lasting memory for those who are lucky enough to enjoy it. What stands out is the absolutely seamless-seamless-seamless (yes, it's worth repeating three times) integration of its many moving parts. The wine magically transitions from cherry, spice, chocolate and espresso in one melodic and continuous loop. It exudes balance and elegance over long, delicious minutes. It is profoundly impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Of all the grapevines planted on the Ornellaia estate, the 2010 vintage showed best results with Merlot, says Leonardo Raspini. Because the harvest was later than usual, the early-ripening grape enjoyed a slow and steady evolution. This year Ornellaia celebrates the 25th anniversary of its flagship wine, the eponymous Ornellaia (1988-2013). General Director Leonardo Raspini and his team decide to celebrate with a commemorative edition of the wine packaged in an etched bottle with gold lettering. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners; www.foliowine.com

One of the highlights of the vintage on the Tuscan coast, the 2010 Ornellaia is dazzling. A tightly wound, powerful wine, the 2010 is going to need a few years in the cellar to show the full breadth of its potential and class. Still, it is impossible to miss the wine's pure pedigree and class. Freshly cut flowers, mocha, tobacco, grilled herbs and plums burst from the glass in this beautifully layered, polished Ornellaia. The 2010 is vivid, nuanced and precise from start to finish. I can't wait to see how it develops over the coming years. Today, the 2010 is all about precision, vibrancy and saline-infused energy. I very much like the way the wine continues to open up in the glass. In 2010 winemaker Axel Heinz increased the Merlot quite a bit in order to give the wine a little more richness, while Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, both challenged by the weather, were used sparingly. The 2010 is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

'This is a wine with no redeeming fault', was the comment of a fellow taster as we examined this, the latest, 25th anniversary, release from the famous winery established next door to Sassicaia's vineyards by Lodovico Antinori. Watch out for Julia's forthcoming account of a tasting of eight major vintages from this cosseted property, and see this 2006 vertical of vintages 2003 back to 1985. This latest wine, from a notably cool vintage for Bolgheri, has so much more grace than many recent vintages. Deep crimson, it is beautifully fresh and clean with a little tobacco leaf lift on the nose. There's nothing flashy or effortful about this, just beautiful balance and medium weight fruit that's already approachable. As one might expect for such a youthful wine, there are some perceptible tannins on the finish but overall it is luscious without being over the top. A bit sweeter and thicker than Sassicaia 2010. Horses for courses. Bravo! (JR)