1992 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

The 1992 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières is a multi-faceted wine, mercurial in the glass straight from the beginning. It offers an array of scents from white peach to orange pith, quince jelly to honeysuckle, all constantly shape-shifting in the glass. And what intensity - this just bursts forward and entertains you right from the start. The palate has a slight nutty note on the entry although this appears to dissipate. There is a honeyed texture to this Puligny-Montrachet, which you do not often find in 1992 suggesting that Lalou picked a little later, but she managed to retain extraordinary tension and race on the almost Meursault-like finish. Brilliant. Tasted at the mature white Burgundy dinner in Hong Kong.