1990 Clos Vougeot

The regular cuvee of Clos de Vougeot possesses a saturated deep ruby color. The nose offers lavishly rich, sweet aromas of black fruits and new oak. In the mouth, the wine enjoys exceptional concentration, a dense, expansive, opulent palate, plenty of glycerin, and a heady, lusty, intensely concentrated finish. While approachable now, it should evolve gracefully for up to a decade. Proprietor Francois Labet has taken this perennial underachiever to the top of Burgundy's quality hierarchy. In addition to bottling his wines unfined and unfiltered, Labet is beginning to organize his viticulture management so that his superbly placed parcel of Clos Vougeot can be farmed in an organic manner. His 1990s are the finest wines this estate has ever produced. Importer: William Grant and Sons, Edison, NJ.