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Harvested on September 5th at 15% natural potential alcohol, the 2003 Clos Vougeot sports an unreal, fabulous nose of chocolate-covered cherries and kirsch. Chunky, massively rich, and full-bodied, it bullies the palate, delivering masses of tar, licorice, plums, and assorted black fruits that are ensconced in its substantial – yet ripe – tannin. Those searching for elegance, delicacy, and finesse are well-advised to avoid this brooding monster. However, readers wishing to cellar a hugely powerful Burgundy with tremendous upside potential may well want to search it out. Projected maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Pierre Rovani
More reviews and scores
(Liger-Belair's 0.7-hectare parcel is in the south part of this cru, in the corner next to Echezeaux; a blend of 62- and 10-year-old vines) Good saturated deep red. Rich, rather merlot-like aromas of plum, licorice and spice. Lush, fat and palate-caressing, with a seamless texture. This will give immediate pleasure, while the Saint-Georges will require a few years of aging. A sample from a Dominique Laurent magic cask showed a more chocolatey nose; a palate that was both fresher and more confectionery; and a more firmly tannic aftertaste.